Cabo Matapalo, Osa Peninsula, Costa
Rica
And I thought Montana was remote! |
This is by far the most exotic place I have ever been! Sitting here on my private dais 500 feet above the surf, gazing out over the Pacific Ocean, I feel I’m at the edge of a bizarre otherworld, especially when the Panama coastline disappears in the haze on the horizon. Yellow-billed toucans perch in the trees to the left and right of me; three pairs of scarlet macaws fly past at eye level; a squirrel monkey shimmies down a vine hanging not 20 meters away; hummingbirds hover at the hibiscus blooms so near I could touch.
But I refrain from all movement, remind
myself it’s important to just BE, and simply watch, listen, and sense the 750
acres of lush private rainforest behind me, an entire three square kilometers teeming with flora and fauna of the most
fascinating kinds. I mean, how awesome is a place where ginger, cilantro, and
ylang ylang grow wild and abundantly?!
And where such funky animals as these can be seen:
Three-toed sloth |
Anteater |
Poison dart frog |
Armadillo |
Also, I’ve had some of my most extraordinary wilderness adventures while here, including rappelling down a 100-foot rushing waterfall and releasing 200 turtle hatchlings into the ocean.
In my search for a tropical Latin
American experience, Costa Rica was the obvious choice: safe, stable, a pioneer
in ecotourism, home to an extravaganza of biodiversity. Further delving, however, made me think maybe
it was too developed, too touristy, packaged its natural gifts too
slickly – and then I discovered the Osa Peninsula.
Its remoteness and the extra effort
required to get here appealed to my fundamental desire to avoid crowds and my aversion to following the pack. Even its geography sets it apart from the
rest of the country. Its superlatives impressed: the tallest trees; the deepest bay; the last remnant of humid tropical
rainforest on the Pacific coast. When I learned that of CR’s 5% of all the world's species, 50% was to be found here (including 878 kinds of birds), I was sold. The Osa sounded like the real deal and
promised a wildlife immersion that was, in fact, wild.
So here I am, 10 days in and finding my groove in this environment: geckos scurrying up the shower wall do not faze me; I’m nonchalant about the agouti scampering across the clearing; I’m inured to having to shake out my shoes before stepping into them; the possibility of a coati rambling into my cabina only slightly freaks me out. But I must admit that knowing we are at the top of the food chain is scant comfort on treks where jaguars, ocelots, and fer-de-lance have been sighted regularly.
Although the beaten path at times
feels perhaps a bit too far away, this rich, authentic experience is what I
came for, and one I will certainly never
forget.
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