The contrasts between
unspoiled, authentic Myanmar and sterile, artificial Singapore could not be
greater. I’ve come from a country of the
past to an ultra-modern metropolis; from horse carts and bamboo-thatched houses
to Mercedes and skyscrapers; from dusty, bumpy unpaved roads to 10-lane
expressways; from benign Buddhism to a place where you can be fined for
throwing gum on the sidewalk.
While I admit I appreciated
the efficiency of Changi airport (got through immigration and customs in less
than 10 minutes), the rest of my 48-hour layover is distressingly
First-World.
The taxi queues are marshaled
orderly through steel barriers to a white-gloved attendant directing a seamless
flow of cabs and customers. After a
short, speedy drive, the über-urban cityscape comes into view and I swear I
shudder.
Not only is the Singapore climate oppressive but also the superficial professionalism (polite yet unengaged) I encounter everywhere somehow leaves me surly. There are CC cameras all over the place – what is this, a police state? The gardens that have won Singapore its reputation as the greenest city in Asia are too cultivated and orderly, many of the plantings growing unnaturally on vertical frames up apartment buildings. Nothing is makeshift or improvised or spontaneous or left to chance. Even the cleanliness par excellence is annoying.
Absolutely most appalling is
the rampant consumerism. This is a city with scores of massive shopping malls
full of more, more, and more stuff that none of us needs. Feeling overwhelmed myself, when I imagine
the reaction of the lovely ladies at the village thanaka market or the farmer driving
the oxcart back in Burma, my discomfort is compounded by shame and
disgust.
I sweat my way around Marina
Bay, and the depressingly irrelevant sight of hordes of tourists with their smartphones and selfie sticks stopping
every few meters to snap themselves indiscriminately has me asking in dismay: Do we do anything anymore that is not
a photo opportunity?
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